Gallaudet University, Friends of the Deaf

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Greetings friends! Normally my blog describes my travels going west in the United States but this time I had to make an exception. My latest trip took me south to our nation’s capital Washington, D.C. There sits Gallaudet University the nation’s oldest and only university for the Deaf. At first glance the student body here is like that of any other college in North America. There were skate boarders, punks, jocks, nerds and the beautifully vain swirling all around; each trying to find their place in this world. So goes the stereotypes, but at Gallaudet University these personalities always play second string to being Deaf. This is your first identity, an identity you had better learn to be comfortable with because at GU being apart of deaf culture is a strength not a weakness. There are no inferiority complexes being embraced here only pride. The young people here are in a positive environment that unifies them all in being deaf. ASL is not inferior to speech, in fact those whom can speak rarely use it. Since GU is a deaf school it is embraced as such but not on hearing terms. The students were so energetic and full of emotion as I recall. Perched on a bench at Fowler Hall near a bust of founding father Clerc, I carefully watched as a group of grad students chatted away; their hands and fingers moved about in a frenzy. Their facial expressions going up, drooping down, smiling, frowning and eyes rolling in the back of their heads, perhaps describing an obnoxious professor. I surely wanted to know what they were discussing but I could not understand them. It was then that I felt the first pangs of doubt and anxiety. I wanted to understand but I just couldn’t get inside their world. I felt slightly inferior mainly because I realized that no matter how intelligent and articulate I was with words it had no place here. It was useless. I began to question my own taught language. I felt ashamed I could not express myself the way I wanted. Shortly after this I met up with Peggy, a bubbly (hearing) tour coordinator at GU. For about an hour and a half a group of 10 students and I strolled the sprawling green and gothic campus. One deaf student and I attempted for a moment to communicate but to no avail. The student and I empathized with each other (both exhausted and frustrated) and at that moment we shared a common bond. Fortunately GU erases that tense and frustrating feeling of not being understood and that’s what makes it so special. A student here can throw off the pressures of having to conform to the hearing world. The only language accepted here is ASL. At GU, ASL is not compared to spoken English because to do so undermines ASL itself. It sends the message that ASL is inferior to speech because it is not “audible” but it is audible to those whom use it. ASL is as dignified and effective as let’s say Chinese or Hungarian (or any foreign language) if not more so. Speech and ASL just simply cannot be compared in my mind. The GU community seems to feel the exact same way. This is a community that looks after one another, encourages one another and most importantly educates one another. They feel it is their duty to keep GU a deaf institution and not assimilate to hearing standards. Most hearing individuals cannot understand this because sadly we feel we are the gold standard for communication. As hearing people, we talk so much and use speech so abusively that our words have begun to lose their meaning. Our words have become empty to a degree. To the deaf every sign means something and was created using sincere thought and effort. It seems to carry more emotion and responsibility within the deaf community. The students at GU were such an inspiration to me that I feel ASL is arguably superior to speech. Ironically, I now understand that I can speak eloquently and yet still be misunderstood. Others may be able to hear me but not really feel what I’m expressing. That is the great equalizer. We are just as much a victim of our hearing as some feel the deaf are a victim of their silence. How wonderful it was to be in a place where these young ones can say to each other, “Here I am, I am listening…I understand you!”

Vancouver, B.C and Victoria Island

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Why is the sky blue? Who built the pyramids? Why do hotdogs come in packs of 10 and hotdog buns in packs of 8? And just why are Canadians so dang nice? Well I have gained first hand experience with the warmth and hospitality of our Northern neighbors when the mother of all tragedies happened! More on that later. Just recently I have returned from the beautiful city of Vancouver, British Columbia. This picturesque city situated in the southeastern region of B.C  is surrounded by a network of inlets and can be crossed by ferries offering a spectacular view of the Pacific Northwest. This coast line, referred to as the “Sunshine Coast” has a calm atmosphere but has  plenty to offer in terms of art, culture and outdoor activities. So needless to say this area was a must see! The name “Canada” (which is Inuit for “village”) conjures up images of igloos, moose and other kitschy stereotypes to outsiders. Canada has long existed but not on the radar of most American’s. Quite honestly most Americans don’t seem to know or care about this vast and wonderful country.  The landscape of Canada is so diverse and huge, that to explore all of it would take a lifetime. You’ve got the golden wheat fields of Alberta and the emerald-green lush climate of the west coast. And if you’re really brave  you could travel further north to the white-out conditions of the Canadian arctic. So if its diversity you’re seeking Canada is your destination. My time in Vancouver was great and one I will never forget. When I travel art and culture is usually my theme, so B.C .was the place for me!  Downtown Vancouver is  sleek–very modern and the city itself is young. Later on I decided to venture off the beaten path a bit and visit Victoria Island. The lovely town of Victoria offers that old rustic look into B.C. past. The old golden-domed city hall and cobblestone streets was a welcomed departure to the congestion of downtown Vancouver. However when staying in Vancouver I recommend staying in the downtown area for convenience sakes. Doing this puts you in the middle of everything and you can access  any taxi, train, ferry or bus you need. I accessed the ferry to Victoria, by hopping on the “skytrain” and catching another bus to Tsawassen Ferry Terminal. They run every hour from 7am to 8pm. The scenic ferry ride will only run you $13.00 each way and takes about an 1 hour and 30 minutes! If you don’t like the idea of capsizing on a boat then I would recommend hopping on the #17 bus from downtown to UBC and checking out some fascinating art of the First Nations, the indigenous people of Canada.  The University of British Columbia Museum of Anthropology (MOA) houses an extensive selection of Haida and other Pacific tribal art and crafts. They have  about a dozen towering totem poles and a wooden house used for ceremonies located behind the museum. I have to say this was my favorite part of the trip. The First Nations artwork and craftmanship is so detailed and unique. I recommend checking this place out because it will give you a different perspective on the history of Vancouver. I even liked the names of the surrounding towns like Coquitlam, Tsawassen, Squamish and Nanaimo all reflecting their native roots.  Okay so remember the mother of all tragedies I mentioned earlier? Well I unfortunately lost my wallet at the museum during the  last two days of my trip. I was so distraught over the whole thing that I felt like crap not to mention broke! But the sincere kindness and help of one of the security guards (let’s just call him ‘G’) and barista Irena brought my Canada bashing days to an end.  They were so sweet and I soon realized that Canadians not only really care about each other but they look out for us tourists as well. Not to say it wasn’t great making fun of the way Canadians talk and use those odd little packets of vinegar on their food (yes vinegar). Oh shoot wait! Sorry! Ok so no more Canada bashing.  Oh I mean it this time and if anyone has anything bad to say about Canada they’ll have to answer to me dammit! I also need to mention the kindness and prompt attention by the staff at the Hotel Listel. They even sent a card apologizing for the mishap, a voucher for a free breakfast and a cash advance offer. Now that’s what I call being “nice”! Not to mention making a poor lowly tourist’s last days as comfortable as possible.  I do believe Canadians  have a grasp on being so nice in part because they feel its their duty. They are like the Switzerland of North America; neutral but a force to be reckoned with. They don’t bully their way around. They have a  quiet strength about themselves. They don’t compare themselves with Americans and why the heck  should they.  They are proud of their country. They’re Canadian  in their own right and with their own identity. Hmmm kind of makes me want to sing, O Canada…wait how does it start again? Stupid Americans. 😉

*For more info on the The Listel Hotel contact 604-684-8461. They are located downtown at 1300 Robson Street Vancouver, B.C.

** For all Vancouver ferry routes, destinations, itineraries and schedules visit www.bcferries.com

***University of British Columbia Museum of Anthropology is open daily 10am-5pm and is $14 for adults and free for kids 6 and under. Visit www.moa.ubc.ca for more info. Pictures are allowed!

Santa Fe, NM

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Santa Fe truly was a desert gem for me. Flying into Albuquerque at first I was surrounded by commercial southwestern atmosphere; sombrero style restaurants and red chilli-pepper hood ornaments. There was a Wal-Mart to the right and fast food chains to the left.  However just over the horizon of the hazy purple and blue Sandia mountains that encircle central New Mexico, you can see a different New Mexico waiting to be explored. The old city of Santa Fe was my destination.  I sleepily wandered out of the Albuquerque Airport and it was pitch black outside by now but the stars were brilliant they lit up the sky as I searched fo my shuttle. “Headin’ to Santa Fe ma’am ?”, a friendly voice asked from across the arrival counter. It was Lloyd and he was my shuttle driver. Lloyd looked to be about 100 years old and couldn’t have weighed more than 100 lbs soaking wet but he grabbed my luggage like they were grocery bags and off we went hurrying into my shuttle. I wasn’t the only passenger but I might as well had been, no one talked to each other all eager to get to their hotel and crash. Lloyd gave me a quick history of Santa Fe and chatted about he and his wife while I looked out the window gazing at these amazingly bright stars. It was beautiful as I have not seen a starry night in so long. After an hour drive we finally arrived at my bed and breakfast, Casa del Toro! Paul the manager a talkative and friendly fellow gave me a city map and keys and we briefly talked about what to do over the next three days, I sleepily agreed and made my way to my suite. Hard wood floors squeaked as I walked in as the smell of burning leaves from outside followed me in the room. I felt like I was at home and my grandmother should be in the kitchen cooking something. The next morning I awoke to a most interesting  little city. The sun peeked through the curtains and looking out the window I could tell I was gonna love Santa Fe. The air was so crisp and dry, but it was invigorating. The sky was big and blue it seemed larger than usual because there are no tall trees. The buildings were mostly adobe with pink and brown terracotta  trimming. The structures are almost apart of the earth and had a very organic vibe.  Santa Fe has a public ordinance not allowing buildings to be over three-stories high. I like that for some reason. There was no cold, sterile steel. No imposing towering buildings to feel intimidated by. Every person I met seemed eager to talk and wanted to know what brought me to their city. My reply was simply ” uh…the art”. Santa Fe has a huge artist community and its known as the “City Different” for that reason. Ex-hippies, retired sculptors, painters, musicians and writers all make Santa Fe their home and you can see their influence all through the city. Exploring downtown armed with comfortable shoes and a map you can see the fire-engine red ristras (hand-strung red chilli peppers) hanging from most of the buildings giving it a uniquely Santa Fe feel. Someone said that the tradition started there over 400 years ago. Georgia O’Keeffe’s art is everywhere and the city is proud of its most famous artist (I’m a huge fan). Art galleries, jewelry stores, Native-American craft stores and unique boutiques are all situated near one another. The most popular cuisine is a combination of Native-American flair. I loved the southwestern dishes I tried, not your typical Tex-Mex. The food here is more organic using a lot of Native Navajo and Pueblo influences. However there are Japanese, French, Greek, Italian and fusion spots if you get bored with the southwestern stuff. Native-American merchants all line up near the Palace of Governors( located downtown) selling everything from the typical souvenirs to antique Navajo blankets and turquoise treasures. They are mostly Pueblo and Navajo and sometimes travel for hours from their reservations just to sell their crafts. Santa Fe is truly unique and you will find one-of-a kind pieces and crafts for sure so be prepared to spend a little. Talking to the Natives there was so educational their version of the historical events in New Mexico is totally different from what you read in the guides. They are warm, friendly and enthusiastic to share stories about growing up on “the rez”. My last day in Santa Fe was bittersweet and I didn’t want to leave. Trading in the colorful natural scenery for my gray urban landscape so was hard. One thing is for sure Santa Fe is the “City Different” and I hope to return soon. I will request Lloyd as my driver if he’s still around. 😉

Smiles,

E

*Please note there are NO direct flights to Santa Fe you must fly into Albuquerque International Airport and catch a shuttle to Santa Fe if you are not renting a car. I recommend Sandia Shuttle Lines for just $25 one-way. Checkout www.sandiashuttle.com for  daily schedules.

**Casa del Toro runs wonderful rates in the fall and winter months starting at $78.00 per night. They also offer free breakfasts every morning from 8:00-9:30am, Mariyela is the cook and she’s awesome! To book a room contact Paul at 866-476-1091 or checkout www.casadeltoro.com

 

Scottsdale, AZ

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Traveling to Scottsdale, Arizona in 115 degree heat is no easy task! You can almost feel the pull of the heat suck you like a vacuum into this desert oasis. Leaving the Phoenix Sky Harbor airport I realized that coping with the heat and arid temperatures is not for the faint of heart! George, my cab driver entertained me with lively talk about why so many clamor to make Maricopa County their new home. “You know this weather reminds me of Greece”, he says cheerfully and nostalgically as we chat about his Mediterranean home. The draw, he adds is that the town of Scottsdale has a very international feel as a result from tourism in the area. The hospitality and travel industry has imported Greek, Indian, Chinese and European alike to this unique little town. Although very captivated by this phenomenon, I am on  a quest to find a truly “southwestern” experience and it starts with the town of Scottsdale! Old Town Scottsdale is the historic and oldest, as the name suggests, part of the town. There are plenty of galleries and eclectic shops dotting the main streets of Indian School House Road and Scottsdale Road. Scottsdale has a vibrant arts scene. The weekly “Artwalk” is a tradition in Scottsdale that has taken place for the past 30 years. It happens every Thursday evening (except Thanksgiving) starting around sunset come rain or shine. It features free entry to all of Old Town’s art galleries. This gives the opportunity for art lovers to experience all the town has to offer artistically without the pressure of buying art. As you peruse Old Town in the dusky part of the day as I did you can see why so many have relocated to this desert community. The sky is a swirl of orange, red and purple as the sun sets each day. The arid temperature is hot but comfortable not stifling. Everyone is friendly and eager to swap stories of how they traded in the urban rat race for a more normal pace. The town has a wide variety to choose from in terms of accommodations when you visit. I opted to stay at the Hotel Valley Ho located on Main Street off Camelback Rd. It is a revamped 1950’s landmark hotel that used to house Frank Sinatra, Sammy Davis Jr., Natalie Wood and other 50’s icons. The hotel itself  is chic, retro and has a feel of class and sophistication contrasted against the rugged and outdoorsy landscape. Quite a unique stay and the staff are helpful and at your disposal. Located across the street is a free shuttle that will whisk you off to the downtown, the Waterfront and Old Town sections of the town. There you will find the Fashion Square Mall featuring all your posh shopping spots like Neiman’s, Nordstrom’s and your more high-end chain stores. I opted of course to forego all of that and headed for Old Town. Thats where I seemed to  feel the most comfortable to explore the real Scottsdale; cowboy hats and big belt buckles here I come! While there are no shortages of southwestern kitsch it is balanced by a colorful history of the town itself which started in the 1800’s. There are many Native American cultural tours that will take you to surrounding “pueblos”. Feel free to take advantage of the hospitality of the Natives (Navajo mostly), but please exercise courtesy by always asking before taking pictures of any thing you may find interesting. You can find all the info regarding these culture tours either from the concierge or Scottsdale. com. Rock petroglyphs, cave paintings,  reservation tours, sweat-lodging and traditional dances are all up for exploring!  I also highly recommend a trip to the Heard Museum of American Indian art. It’s fantastic!  My trip ended with a healthy respect for this desert community. In the end the beautiful sunsets stick out as one of my fondest memories. The simple action of  a big red glowing orb illuminating the sky with a rainbow of every color imaginable will humble even the most hardened city slicker and taking in all that natural beauty will convert any night owl to a dusk owl. Take my word for it and don’t let the heat discourage you. As the locals say, “…but its the dry kinda heat ya’ know”. 😉

Smiles,

E

*Checkout www.HotelValleyHo.com or call 480-248-2000 to book they fill up fast I recommend calling ahead and booking directly with them instead of using on-line booking. They offer great discounts over the phone that you will miss on the web! They have a full service spa with services starting around $50. Also try the  adjoining Trader Vic’s  restaurant.