Um I have to admit the night before this trip I was very anxious about traveling to Israel. I confided in my mother and a few friends about how I couldn’t sleep and they all assured me it was gonna be a great trip! This is my first trip to the Middle East and although I was super excited I was also thinking about what to expect. I couldn’t reconcile images I’ve seen in the news (foreign and American) and what the reality is over there. I am so ready to just get over there and see it for myself! Lol! I already know that much of what I will see is a big tourist trap however I am determined to see the real Israel and Palestine respectively. Perhaps lunch with a Palestinian family or merchant, a walking tour of old city with some Israeli or Israeli Ethiopians close to my age. I have also planned a trip to Tel Aviv, Bethlehem (Palestine) and if I’m lucky some ancient Roman ruins in Caesarea! Whew! I need to slow down! Okay so I will be leaving for the airport shortly. My bags are packed and I’m putting on some very comfortable shoes! Yeah! I cannot wait to emerge on the other side of the world with my first blog entry from Israel!
Day 1: Oh boy where do I start? Lets just say Israel is a sensory overload type of place! Its noisy, its gritty, its rude and its in your face! It’s like New York City in the Middle East basically and I love it! It had been quite a challenge though.The local customs, language barriers and currency issues aside I am slowly getting used to it. I was not prepared for the “Jewish” culture permeating every aspect of daily life coming from a very secular country. As I write this I am tired, hungry and in search of a decent place to relax. I am starting to realize that Israel may not be quite what I expected!
Day 2: Whew I feel so much better! After much tossing and turning last night I actually feel as though I have the energy to finally face the Old city and the souks(market) today! Luckily I met up with some friendly faces today. One lovely young lady from Serbia and an American guy named Joe who is working in Israel. Joe and I have been exploring old city and so much more, I am so happy I met him and he has made my first full day in Israel great! After a guided tour through old city and most of the Arab souks, Joe and I had lunch and boy was it expensive. As Joe has explained it to me Israel is not very agricultural and is surrounded by desert. In turn food is very expensive and much of it comes in very small portions (a-hem). Needless to say I’m from a country where portions are large and abundant. Also this may be why I have yet to see an overweight Israeli! Maybe we can take a lesson!
Day 3: I am slowly making my way to Tel Aviv! After about an hour ride from Jerusalem you make the journey from religious to secular and might I add very “hipsterish”! Tel Aviv is very modern and a lot more cosmopolitan than Jerusalem. The city is near the beach to the east and more of a Western influence is recognizable. Starbucks cafes dot corners and even the dress style of the Israeli youth is more free and counter-culture. There’s also plenty of graffiti (in Hebrew of course)! You can take a sherut (shared taxi bus) from Jerusalem to Tel-Aviv and its about a 45 minute trip. It will cost around 23 shekels. Make sure you take notice of the architecture as well, its pretty funky!
Day4: Well I must say my overall impression of Israel is changing! The sabbath (Saturday) is finally over and its like the town has sprung back to life! Once again I am meeting with my buddy Joe and we explored other parts of Jerusalem and the German colony. There are excellent parks and public space in this part of Jerusalem and definitely a must see. I have also met up with some other interesting travelers at my hostel; two sisters from Brazil (Daniela and Patricizia) and two Israeli guys ( Raffi and Adam) that are also up for some sight-seeing later on!
Day 5: Well after a night of drinking and talking until the wee hours of the morning (Israelis sure know how to talk)I have finally muscled up the strength to visit Yad Vashem with the Brazilian girls. I must say visiting a Holocaust museum is not my idea of a good time (sorry) however it really is necessary to see this memorial. It was very sobering and the girls and I actually shed a few tears there. Not only do they have authentic video and audio from real-life survivors, the pictures and memorabilia really tugs at your heart-strings. The Israeli people have taken an atrocity and turned into something educational and positive. Later on that evening I had to say goodbye to Joe as he is heading back to America. I was sad to see him go. It’s funny how no matter where you go in the world is always good to see friendly and similar faces from back home.
Day 6: The girls and I conquered the old city! We spent the day shopping and picking up souvenirs for our friends and family and meandered through the winding streets. The Armenian and Jewish quarter were my favorites. There is so much to see and it can be a little overwhelming at first. The men in the markets can be a little aggressive so be prepared to fire back if need be! In fact the girls and I had some pretty rough encounters with the male merchants but rest assured we weren’t backing down! Also be prepared to haggle on the prices that they jack up for the poor, naive tourists! Bargaining is a very popular and “Middle-Eastern” custom but please be reasonable with your offers as to not offend their sensibilities and incur their wrath!
Day 7: Rosh Hashana! Man, no one prepared me for this holiday and the fact that the city turns into a virtual ghost town! It is the Jewish New Year (Shanat Tova)celebrated for two days consecutively. I recommend making sure that unless you are Jewish or don’t mind this, that you come to Israel when it is not a holiday. The roads, public transportation and stores are all closed. I guess I will have to stay in today and catch up on some Israeli American Idol!
Day 8: Day two of Rosh Hashana and I’m actually liking the down time. The constant pressure to do and see has been lifted and I can appreciate Israel for what it is. I successfully “skyped” my friend “Z”, emailed a few people and sent out postcards. I even had time to read some interesting books about Israel and its troubled history. It was then that I noticed the identity crisis Israel is struggling with. As one young Israeli told me, “Israel thinks its European but it’s not it’s more Middle Eastern, we have really struggled to make a place for ourselves and we are trying very hard.” What an affirmation of the dual nature of Israeli politics and society.
Day 9: Well earlier today my travel buddies have asked me if I wanted to go to Ramallah, Palestine. “Ramallah?” I replied nervously. I have to say that I was a little afraid at first but I’m usually up for an adventure so I figured what the heck? All I can say is that I am so happy I decided to go! Palestine was such a wonderful surprise! Although Ramallah is quite gritty and war-torn, I feel as though I got to experience the real Israel. The Palestinian people are such friendly and warm people and so eager to talk about their futures and what they want. Believe me when I say both sides want peace but what’s at stake for them is far greater. I haphazardly met up with a companion named Muhammad who had just turned 18. I have to say he was such a wonderful and remarkable young man. He was so eager to share with me what he and his fellow Palestinians experience on a daily basis. However it is not all doom and gloom as the media has made it out to be. I encountered warm smiles and happiness all around me despite all the conflict (and misunderstandings) surrounding these people. Muhammad was very hopeful for the future and his hope was contagious. I left that day not wanting to say goodbye to Muhammad and the other young people I met there. They were so full of spirit. I will never be the same. My heart broke for them because of their situation and how their lives are affected by this conflict though. All I can say is that I definitely saved the best part of my trip for last!
Day 10: It is with a heavy heart (and empty back account) that I leave Israel today! I have to say this was truly a once in a lifetime trip, although I would love to return again someday. The history surrounding this country was magnificent. The friends I made will be always with me. The culture just as bit as mysterious and fascinating really made quite an impression on me. As I pack I cannot help but think of my friend Muhammad and others that I met in Palestine. When I return to home I know that my views will be forever changed. When I tell people back in the US that I went to Palestine I know I will be bombarded with many questions to which I will have a ready answer! “No it was not dangerous, no I was not afraid and it’s nothing like what you see on television.” There is nothing more I would like to see for that region than peace, hopefully I will see it in my lifetime. 🙂
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